Hi and welcome!

This is about pattern making, fashion design and draping. My videos are love letters to my profession as a pattern maker. You will find tutorials for creating basic patterns and for model patterns, adaptation, design and color schemes.

Are you fed up with painting-by-numbers?

Do you want your projects to have style?

Just imitating is not yours?

There is profound input on the topics of pattern making, fashion and style for your individual further development at your learning pace to become an independent designer. 

Übersetzung

Commercial patterns were created using standard measurements, i.e. average values (including bra cup sizes). This is where the problems lie. Adapting the purchased cut to your own larger/smaller cup size requires specialist knowledge.

Similar to architecture, a pattern in fashion is the two-dimensional representation of the three-dimensional garment. You get a pattern through pattern making or draping. There are many different instructions worldwide for pattern making, which have been shaped by mentality and proportions/body size. In Italy, for example, the clothing sizes are smaller, in some countries the systems are coarser, in France they are finer and more stylish.

The German systems (e.g. M. Müller & Sohn) are very suitable. The effort is worth it, because once you have learned the construction steps, you can then transfer them to stretch- and jersey-patterns and patterns for children's and men's fashion. Fabrics are more or less thick and flexible, the grain is sometimes lengthwise, sometimes diagonally. The fitting process is therefore always necessary.

The pattern draped on the doll is then transferred to paper. For more information about draping, check out the videos on the right.

Photo left: Draping, Photo remix via Instagram @fashionmoulage

Photo right: Der große Fotoguide für die Perfekte Passform. Schnittmuster anpassen auf eigene Körpermaße.

Patterns for woven fabric are sometimes used for jersey for design reasons only. Special patterns are constructed for stretch fabrics, e.g. for leggings. Knitted fabrics require less movement and darts are sometimes left out because the fabric adapts better to the body.

The sleeve pattern is never symmetrical (except sometimes with jersey oversize). The front sleeve is always narrower than the back sleeve. No sleeve has its vertical axis exactly in the middle. There are three basic sleeve cuts:

- tight

- narrow

- wide.

A well-fitting sleeve and matching armhole can be transferred to new constructions.

How to draft the sleeve pattern for beginners.

How to make a two-seam sleeve out of a narrow sleeve.